Why You Shouldn’t Always Do a Manicure?

A perfect manicure is not always the best decision – at least not at every moment. In my daily work as a trainer, I often see that manicure is treated as a must – regardless of the skin's condition.

But the truth is quite simple:
A good manicure is not a routine. It is the result of sensitivity, knowledge – and the right timing.

Today, we take a closer look at five situations in which we should deliberately refrain from doing a manicure – and why this highlights our professionalism.

The Skin is A Miracle of Cell Formation

Our skin is constantly renewing itself. In the basal layer – the deepest part of the epidermis – new cells are created daily. These cells migrate upward, keratinize, and form the outer protective layer. The delicate skin around the nails is particularly sensitive. If it is damaged, this rhythm of cell keratinization becomes unbalanced.

Our task is not to “remove everything”, but to ensure the result is long-lasting and stays consistent over the weeks till the next treatment.

When You Should Avoid a Manicure?

1. In case of injuries on the skin (eponychium)
   Cracks, torn skin, or small wounds often result from dryness, stress-picking, or mechanical strain as well as when there was a long break between manicures. If a manicure is done on the skin in this condition we can cause more damage. Even with the best technique it can harm.
   The result: Frayed skin areas, redness, pain, and no satisfaction with the outcome both for you and the customer.
   Alternative: A gentle express manicure where you don’t go deep, but make the skin appear nicer and smooth carefully the damaged areas. Also it's essential then to apply oil, that helps to take care of the skin in this condition. Especially beneficial: oils with wheat germ oil – they promote wound healing. Once the skin gets used to manicure, customer comes regularly, damaged skin areas heal, we can switch from express to combined manicure if needed.
2. In case of skin conditions like eczema or atopic dermatitis 
   This skin condition requires understanding. Even though these skin changes are not contagious, extra caution is necessary. The skin is often irritated, thin, and vulnerable.
   Here’s the rule: Care instead of manicure – e.g., panthenol or urea creams instead of mechanical treatment. Customers with such skin "problem" look for care, and gentle treatment more than for "insta-clean manicure look". Don't forget that skin condition can change from time to time, for example in summer and winter time. Don't forget that manicure technique can be adapted each time new, depending on the skin condition.
3. In case of warts around the nail 
   Warts are highly contagious. That’s why you must not treat affected areas during a cosmetic manicure. A visit to a doctor is always the right recommendation in such cases.
   Tip: Regularly train your eye. Warts around the nail, or lateral walls are often overlooked, which can lead to spreading of warts on other areas on the skin.
4. For elderly clients with very thin skin, we need to adapt the technique as well or sometimes even refuse doing any manicure, only gently clean.
   As we age, skin becomes drier, thinner, and more delicate. Many older clients also drink too little water, which worsens skin condition.
   The problem: No clear “pocket,” capillaries are close to the surface, skin is very thin. Cutting or using an e-file can lead to bleeding or bruising.
   Better: A gentle care routine with an express manicure – reduced to the essentials. Elderly people value careful work more than others. 
5. When the client doesn’t want a manicure 
   Sometimes clients say, “Please don’t cut!” – and we must respect that. Maybe they’ve had bad experiences or simply feel anxious.
   Tip: Offer to treat just one finger and explain your gentle technique. This often helps build trust. But: some clients simply don’t want a manicure – and that’s perfectly fine. Even work without an intensive manicure can still look clean and professional.

Care Between Treatments – What You Can Recommend:

Manicure is not an obligation, but today it’s part of the new standard – and it requires a responsible attitude.
It must suit the skin, the condition, and the client – not the other way around.
If you’re ever unsure whether to carry out a treatment – that alone is a sign of your professionalism. Doubt shows us that something is unfamiliar – maybe because of lack of knowledge or encountering a case like this for the first time, and you don’t know how to deal with that.

Because: Manicure requires not only skill – but also responsibility, and making the right decision is crucial. Sometimes even against manicure.

Would you like to become more confident in assessing skin conditions and learn how to achieve clean results without cutting?

Then check out my Express Manicure Course – for those who want to go beyond technique.

I’ve also created a free handout “Care Tips for Clients” that you can print and hand out directly in the studio. Download here: Care Tips for Clients.